One of the bigger Superfractor autos from 2011 Topps Chrome went up on eBay this week. Demarco Murray is one of the top rookies this year, and being a Cowboy and a former OU Sooner, he has a lot of collectors who would want the card. After seeing the price climb to ridiculous heights, possibly because of shill bidding or frivolous bids into the card, I have to wonder a few things about selling these cards in auction format.
There has been a lot of reference on my site and the message boards to the “sale” of the Sam Bradford auto Superfractor from 2010 Chrome. It was put up on a 10 day auction, and ended selling ABOVE 12K. Once the auction was completed, it became obvious that the sale was not real, and the winning bidder had no intention of paying. Similar circumstances surrounded the sale of the Stephen Strasburg Super and the Bryce Harper Super, all of which eventually were sold for huge prices. Although the Stras sale was eventually completed, the question remains, how can you sell a card without causing yourself more headaches in getting your money into your paypal account.
The Auction Sale Format
When it comes to cards like this, the general rule of thumb is to start at .99 cents and let it run over 7-10 days. It gives the greatest opportunity for bidding wars to start, and often they do with these chase cards out of popular products. I think this is ideal, but it is also very risky. You are not able to determine the final buyer of the card without a bidder pre-approval process that can deter some buyers as a whole, but there is no opportunity to vet out potential problems with shipping the valuable card through the mail. The benefit is that exposure will be prolonged, and the card will usually sell for a higher amount due how many people will have the chance to see the card.
Safeguards: Reserve (usually prevents people from bidding on an item because they think the reserve will be too high), Pre-approved bidders (see above), preventing bidders with unpaid item strikes (MUST HAVE), prevent low feedback bidding (MUST HAVE).
The Buy It Now/Best offer Format
I used BIN/BO for almost every sale because I am impatient and I don’t want to sell for less than the price I am comfortable with. It will not only prevent a lot of fraudulent bidding, but it will also let you figure out exactly what will happen to your card before you end the sale. The issue is that you may not get the same kind of bid war because other buyers are unable to see the offers that others have made. You will also have to deal with lowballers who think they are going to get one over on you. The great thing is, you can field as many offers as you want until the cows come home.
Safeguards: Minimum offer floor to prevent lowballs (MUST HAVE)
Message Board Sales
The main reason to sell off eBay is that you don’t have to deal with the ridiculous fees that eBay requires, only the ones that Paypal does. The issues with selling on a board is that there is very little exposure to places that aren’t familiar with boards, and there are not as many protections against scammers in the midst. The great thing is that you can target the specific collectors on the board who you know will want the card and negotiate directly, rather than waiting for the collector to come to you.
Safeguards: Message board feedback ratings are VERY important
Auction House Sales
I am pretty unfamiliar with the logistics of using an auction house, but I know that many of them can generate national news exposure if the item is big enough. There will be tons of security to prevent any issues with the transfer of the item to the buyer, but you will pay dearly for it with a lot of items. To abstain from the risk factors of the above ways, it may be worth the extra money just to avoid issue. The Joe Jackson cut auto out of Leaf Sports Icons was sold this way, and I definitely think it was a good idea.
Safeguards: Whatever is offered by the auction house
Don’t get me wrong, there will always be risk involved with selling on the net, and all of these risks should be considered if you are lucky enough to own a huge chase pull from a prominent product. I have never needed any of these services because I am not at all lucky in breaking wax, but there are a lot of people who are. I would post on the boards to see if there are insider tips that I have left out.
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As a person who was able to complete a legit sale of a Bradford 1/1 RC Patch Auto, I must say that the only way to go (on feeBay) is the BIN/Best Offer. I had the person who ‘won’ the 1st in auction format end up emailing me (after I sent about 3 emails and had to file a non-paying bidder report) that his KID somehow managed to hack his eBay account and must have bid on the card. I refused to back down on the NPB report and sent the info. to eBay. He threatened to post negative feedback and that was all the evidence I needed. I just replied and said pay for your card or get reported. Of course he leaves a negative and I just forwarded all the messages to eBay. They removed them all and restored my 100% feedback. I blocked the guy, listed his ID on a popular messageboard so others could do the same and moved on to the BIN/BO format. It took a few months but finally got a reasonable offer and completed the deal with zero hassle.
While it sucks if the winning bidder does not pay, it’s not the end of the world since Ebay has a process by which sellers can make a 2nd chance offer to the next highest bidder at one bidding incrememnt below the original bid.
Love the fact that the seller of the Murray super is still charging shipping on the card. Come on, if I pay $5k for a picture of a dude with his signature at least you could kick in the shipping!
Is there a field to check or an area where a minimum feedback for bidding can be specified on eBay? I had tried selling a card this summer and had a bunch of shill bidders. But I did not see a field that I could pick to limit bidding to a certain feedback level.
Almost. Took me almost a year to sell my Exquisite Adrian Peterson Rookie through BIN/BO. People really like to nickel and dime you on Ebay. Got a lot of BS offers, but someone finally made a serious one that I accepted.
Heh, I had one guy accept my best counter-offer only to re-neg on the deal a day later because he was buying it “for a friend” who didn’t have the money to pay after all. Whatever.